By Olivier Felicio
This season, QASIMI isn’t just delivering a wardrobe—it’s serving a masterclass in turning the runway into a global art gallery. For AW25, Hoor Al Qasimi teams up with trailblazing Māori artist Emily Karaka, whose vibrant paintings tackle big-ticket topics like ancestral history, land rights, and cultural resilience. Together, they’ve cooked up a collection that’s part fashion, part activism, and entirely unforgettable.
Karaka’s powerful work, particularly her standout piece “He Kakano Ahau”, is the soul of this collection. The painting’s name means “I Am a Seed,” and just like a seed, these designs are bursting with life and meaning. Every piece tells a story—or two- from lush fabrics to boundary-pushing silhouettes. “Through bold prints, intricate embroideries, and changeable silhouettes, this collection reflects the ongoing struggle for Māori rights and other indigenous struggles worldwide,” Al Qasimi explains.
Color, Texture, and a Dash of Drama
Imagine this: sweeping brushstrokes from Karaka’s paintings reimagined in neon threads, her fierce words embroidered across cuffs, collars, and seams. It’s like wearing a protest sign, but make it couture. QASIMI’s signature modular designs—think zips, studs, and adjustable seams—take things up a notch. A classic A-line skirt can spiral into a bold statement piece at the flick of a button, while a shirt sleeve transforms into an avant-garde masterpiece mid-outing. Who needs boring basics when your outfit can multitask like this?
And then there’s the vibe: loose shirts paired with slouchy trousers channel effortless cool, while oversized windbreakers and hoodies bring a relaxed, “I woke up like this” energy. Even the tailoring is approachable—curved shoulders and roomy fits give the sharpest jackets a softer edge.
Fashion Meets Feelings
But let’s be real: this collection isn’t just about looking good (though it definitely does that). It’s about feeling connected—to history, to creativity, to the idea that fashion can say something meaningful. Karaka’s lyrics, inspired by the Waiata (song) in “He Kakano Ahau,” are stitched into the fabric of this collection, literally and figuratively. Lines like, “And I can never be lost, I am a seed born of greatness”, hit like a mic drop, reminding us of the strength that comes from knowing where you come from.
And the best part? Al Qasimi and Karaka’s collaboration isn’t just about celebrating Māori culture—it’s a rallying cry for solidarity among all oppressed communities. As Hoor puts it, “Karaka often references other oppressions and colonial histories as an expression of solidarity—something we all need to do at this present time.”
The AW25 runway wasn’t just a show—it was an experience. Models strutted through a space designed by Leon Kacinari, which doubled as a gallery showcasing Karaka’s influence. Mimi Xu’s hauntingly beautiful soundtrack set the mood, while Laurence Walker’s undone hairstyles and Crystabel Efemena Riley’s fresh, glowy makeup kept things effortlessly cool. Every detail, down to the lighting by Hydra Design, was crafted to bring the collection’s themes of resistance and resilience to life.
