By Nancy Ripton
WALLS
What’s the problem: “The average 50-year-old home loses a third of its energy through air leakage,” says William Kemp, author of Smart Power and The Renewable Energy Handbook. The biggest culprits? Tiny holes in window frames, behind walls and baseboards. Electrical sockets, an attic hatch, and areas where items are screwed into walls (such as clothing rails in closets) are also drafty spots. “The average Toronto home has enough cracks, leaks and crevices to add up to a basketball sized hole in the wall,” says Vladan Veljovic, president and CEO of Greensaver.
What to do: A blower door test, conducted during an energy audit, is the best way to find primary air leakage areas. Sockets can be lined with foam ($20 for an entire house). Small cracks can be caulked (about $4 per tube of caulking) and larger ones filled with foam ($5 can should do the entire house).
Savings: Depends on leaks and accessibility of holes; savings of 20 to 30 per cent of energy costs are normal and could reach 70 per cent.
WINDOWS & DOORS
What’s the problem: In most cases, it’s not cost effective to change windows because their cost is so high compared with the potential energy savings.
What to do: Caulk windowsills or cover with heat-shrinkable plastic in winter (less than $20 for a few windows). High-grade weather stripping can help reduce drafts around doors ($25 per door). Expect to pay $500 to $1,000 per new window and use a reputable company: improper installation can actually decrease energy efficiency. Look for a double-glazed window with low-E glass and argon gas fill.
Expected savings: About $3 to $5 per new window per year.
ATTIC
What’s the problem: Ideally, an attic should have 12 inches of insulation to decrease drafts and make a home more comfortable. Homes built in the ’60s typically have about three inches while older homes could have even less.
What to do: Lay new insulation ($200 to $2,000 depending on ease of access, since not all older homes have a cavity to the attic). If there’s no opening, an auditor can drill a small hole to check for insulation thickness. Make sure the opening is well sealed and a vapour barrier is installed or warm air can blow through insulation, possibly causing mold. Ensure insulation isn’t blocking lights, creating a fire hazard.
Savings: Up to 30 per cent in older homes, however it may not be worth the cost if there’s no access. An energy audit can give you an estimate.
LIGHTING
What’s the problem: Standard incandescent light bulbs are widely used but inefficient.
What to do: “Replacing all incandescents with compact fluorescents (CFLs; $3 per bulb) is the easiest way to reduce energy costs,” says Kemp. Install dimmer switches on certain types of CFLs or any remaining standard bulbs indoors and put timers on outdoor lights.
Savings: $100 to $200 per year.
FIREPLACE
What’s the problem: The damper door doesn’t close tightly, allowing hot air to escape when fireplace is not in use.
What to do: “Leaving the damper open is equivalent to having an open window in your house,” says Whiting. Check for damper efficiency during a blower door test. If there is leakage, a WETT certified fireplace technician can install an airtight, spring-loaded damper (about $300). If you don’t use the fireplace, consider sealing the opening with drywall.
Savings: $30 to $100 per year.
VENTS & DUCTWORK
What’s the problem: A temperature imbalance, usually resulting in excess heat on the main level of your home and insufficient heat on upper levels.
What to do: Test vents by placing a standard garbage bag with a cardboard rim over each vent and timing how long it takes to fill with air (three to five seconds is normal). Vents that fill faster are sucking air from the rest of the house. To slow them down, partially close the damper to encourage airflow to less efficient areas. If vents on upper floors are too slow, consider installing an additional cold-air return ($500 to $1,500) to redirect more air upstairs
Savings: Variable savings; however, the biggest reason to change airflow is for comfort and uniform heating.
APPLIANCES & ELECTRONICS
What’s the problem: Today’s refrigerators and washing machines are highly energy efficient, and models prior to 1990 should be upgraded. Stoves, dishwashers and dryers may not be worth replacement costs. Energy is also wasted on electronics left in standby mode.
What to do: Unplug or turn off electronics. Consider upgrading to a high-efficiency fridge ($650 and up) and front-loading washing machine ($900 and up).
Savings: $200 to $250 per year.
AIR CONDITIONER, FURNACE
& WATER HEATER
What’s the problem: In most cases, it does not pay to replace these big-ticket items unless there is another problem with the unit. The possible exception is the air conditioner – the biggest energy waster in most homes.
What to do: Reduce the need for air conditioning by installing energy-efficient ceiling fans. Programmable thermostats (about $50 and up) save heat or air conditioning power when you are sleeping or not home. When it’s time for a new furnace (they typically last 25 to 30 years), choose the highest efficiency model possible ($1,400 to $4,000; new central air costs $1,500 to $3,000). The greenest option is ground source heating, also known as geo exchange ($18,000 to $40,000 to install; annual cost to run is about $10). When it’s time to replace a water heater (every 15 years), consider an on-demand unit, which costs 60 per cent less to run ($1,000 to $2,500 to install). Until then, launder in cold water and install low-flow showerheads and aerator faucets, which mix air and water to give less flow while maintaining high pressure.
Savings: About 30 to 40 per cent increase in efficiency; switching to a geothermal energy system will cut costs by 300 to 500 per cent. VM
